Tuesday 17 January 2012

Fort Cochin

Fort Cochin is the "old town" part of Kochi. It is the touristy part of the twin cities of Kochi and Ernakulum, the latter is now a large commercial hub. It overlooks the Arabian Sea and has traded with many cultures over several thousand years, including the Chinese, Arabs, Romans and others. King Solomon's temple was built using materials, including teak, that came from Kerala.

Jews came here nearly two thousand years ago, (Cochin or Malabar Jews), and remained in varying numbers, often under the protection of the ruling King of Cochin, until the formation of Israel.  The population in the 1930s reached 20,000, but is now down to nine, the youngest a spinster of 45 or so - the community faces extinction within a generation. Being a Saturday, the synagogue was closed to visitors, but reportedly has some beautiful hand-painted tiles in it. Jew Town remains a trading area, full of houses converted to market stalls, claiming to not pay commissions to agents and offering hassle-free shopping. I cannot attest to the former, but the latter is bollocks.


The Portuguese arrived in 1503 (lead by Vasco da Gama), and there are a number of buildings that date back to their arrival. The European arrivals (Portuguese, Dutch, and English in succession) were at least as interested in empire building as they were in spice trading. Da Gama died here on his third trip in 1524, and was buried in what is now known as St Francis's Church until his son returned his remains to Lisbon some 14 years later. (Judging by the size of his tombstone, Vasco was a bit of a short-arse.)


The Portuguese built a church (Catholic) in 1503, which was later renovated by the Dutch (Dutch Reformed - Protestant) ca 1663, and again by the English (low Anglican, 1779), who rededicated it to St Francis (Xavier). Where it was certainly once a highly decorated church, it is now very austere. Although it is now a historical site, it is also an active church, with services in English and Mayalayam each Sunday.

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