Wednesday 1 October 2014

Day 13 - Padirac and Chatelneu: unders and overs

Today, we went underground, and then to the top of an outcrop.

The gouffre (sinkhole) and associated limestone caves of Padirac were (re-discovered in 1889, by Alfred Martel).

[Pic of sinkhole from above and below]

Unlike NZ limestone caves, these ones don't seem to have glowworms (or perhaps the lights are always on, so you'd never know). There are, however, grand canyons and huge rooms, the base of which hold clear pale green water. Photographs inside the caves are forbidden, but I did manage to sneak a few (no flash).

From the sinkhole, you go down another few flights of stairs, and then walk along the base of the canyon. There is no natural river through this cave - all the water trickles down from through the limestone. The slighly acidulated water carved out these huge channels over a million years or so, about 40million years ago (if my French, and memory, serve me well). The base of the cave is around 103' below the surface, and the biggest room is 94' high. The remaining 3m of limestone is expected to give way at some point in the very distant future, leaving some very surprised cows (or steak tartare, if they're in the wrong place at the wrong time).

Some way into the cave, you then bunch into groups and get into a gondola-shaped dingy, and are poled along the next section of the cave. The water depth is between 40cm and 6m, and a fairly steady 12-13 degrees C. Some 20mins later, you disembark and are guided through the next section of the cave. Undisturbed by the gondolas, the water here is an extraordinary pale green, tiered by naturally formed weirs. There are stalactites (down) and stalacmites (up), and a massive column 2.5m in circumference and the full depth of the cave where two have joined. The column hangs from the ceiling, stopping an inch into the water (as the dissolved limestone can't deposit in water).

There is also the gorgeous confection in the upper lake, formed by calcium carbonate-enriched water droplets falling from a height (rather than trickling down a stalactite). As the droplet splats, the carbonate precipitates out, slowly building up a flat shape, rather than a column.

After the walk, including more stairs, and more surruptitious photos, we then return back out via the gondolas and the stairs, and then back up the stair (or elevator) from the sinkhole.

Emerging at 1:30pm, and with lunch at most restaurants finishing at 2pm, we chose the slightly futher of the two adjacent tourist-focused restaurants, and had a surprisingly enjoyable meal. (Jos still struggles with the fact that 'berger' does not mean (ham)burger, but instead means fieldworker, or ploughman's lunch.)
After lunch, we then agreed to visit Castelneu, a fortified castle atop an outcrop of rock (visible across the valley as far away as Cahus). Built in various stages from the 13th to 17th centuries, it fell into ruins, but was partially rescued by a tenor in the Paris Opera who bought it in the late 19th century before donating it to the state shortly before his death.

[Pics of buildings, and info about their construction, plus pics of the panoramic view].

Everyone was a wee bit pooped by the end of the day, and we staggered home again.

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